Leopard Country

Cats of Bera

By Patanjali Somayaji

May 1^st, 2020

Bera Village, close to the Jawai Dam in the Aravali Range of Rajasthan is an amazing example of the adaptability of both leopards and humans. It is a human habitation where leopards roam free, living on rocky outcrops that dot the landscape. Amidst cultivated farmland, leopards have been able to continue in their Bera home thanks to a local, community driven conservation effort.

Jawai Dam

Western Rajasthan's biggest dam is a paradise for migratory birds and a home to numerous crocodiles. Its unique landscape lends to stunning landscape photography opportunities.

Leopards had been spotted that morning on these rocks, and we spent a few hours looking for them.

There are no boundaries or paths to follow in Bera, unlike in other wildlife parks and sanctuaries. "Spotters" set out early in the morning before sunrise to locate leopards, and safari jeeps full of eager tourists follow.

King of the Jungle

The leopard is the apex predator and undisputed star of this rural jungle. While they usually prey on other smaller wild animals like monkeys, dogs, boar and deer, they also live off the local cattle population.

We first saw this female leopard with her cub from far away, as small dots on a rock; almost merging into the background. As the light fell rapidly, a frantic drive brought us up close.

"Rabari" shepherds nonchalantly take their cattle out for grazing in the midst of carnivore territory, in a rare example of animal and human co-existence.

"Castle Bera"

Bera was originally settled by Rana Shekha, the fourth son of the famous warrior king Maharana Pratap, on the banks of the river Jawai.

"Castle Bera", the ancestral home of the Thakurs of Bera, is now a boutique homestay, and an ideal launchpad to explore the area. They are the pioneers of leopard safaris in Jawai.

Bera Village

Bera village is a quaint mix of the old and new, - ancient narrow streets but with modern construction material; antique wooden doors right opposite twentieth century metal grills.